Rules, London’s oldest restaurant, donated to National Trust

Historic eatery in London’s theatreland has been donated to the National Trust after changing hands only three times in 228 years.

When Thomas Rule served his first oyster to diners on Maiden Lane in London’s Covent Garden, “mad” George III was on the throne of England, John Adams was the US president, and William Pitt the Younger had just introduced income tax to fund the Napoleonic wars. More than two centuries later, Rules, the restaurant founded by Thomas, has outlasted nine British monarchs and 45 prime ministers, yet has changed ownership only three times.

The interior of its four-storey home, filled with historic playbills, vintage caricatures, and gilded antlers, remains largely unchanged from the 19th century. The restaurant's menu continues to feature hearty dishes such as rabbit rillettes, shin of veal, and roast guinea fowl.

Rules has been a favorite among literary figures like Charles Dickens and William Thackeray, inspired Graham Greene, and was frequented by celebrities including Charlie Chaplin, Laurence Olivier, and Ava Gardner.

However, even London’s oldest restaurant can feel vulnerable to change. This prompted JP Mayhew, who purchased Rules in 1984, to take a significant step in its history by donating the restaurant’s historic home to the National Trust. He expressed confidence that the heritage charity would “protect this place in a way that no one else could.”